Tuesday
Sardinia Travel: Why Sardinia Needs Foreign Tourists
For the residents of Sardinia, a major European tourist destination, tourists and foreigners are a double-edged sword. On the one hand, their patronage is welcome and needed. Often, in tourist destinations, tourism is the lifeblood of the economy, employing millions in resorts, hotels, restaurants, cruise ships and in the many fringe industries that grow up around the trade.
On the other hand, tourism changes a place – look at many Caribbean islands for clear examples. Once a place becomes a tourist destination, the investors descend and buy up real estate, open huge resorts, push small local competitors out of business, and often bring outside employees at the expense of local labor. Once-public Sardinian beaches would become closed to locals, real estate and food prices rise, driven by the influx of foreign money. Pollution can become a problem when cruise ships arrive, dumping incredible amounts of waste into Sardinia’s clear waters. Crime rates often rise as wealthy Sardinian tourists become targets of pickpockets.
Since most popular tourist destinations turned to tourism because of a lack of other economic opportunities, how can a place benefit from tourist dollars without falling to the well-known traps? More specifically, why should Sardinia welcome tourism at all?
For those of you who don’t know much about the economic history of Sardinia (and southern Italy in general) here’s a brief primer. Sardinia was once a land of tremendous natural resources – mostly underground and so spent millennia being mined for precious lead, silver, coal, bauxite, and other ore deposits. Mines and their affiliated refineries, transportation, and shipping industries employed most of Sardinia. The remainder farmed, raised animals, and fished for their living, well into the 20th century.
The last 50 years, since the end of WWII have brought major changes to Sardinia’s economy. Sardinia’s natural resources are largely exhausted and the major mines have closed. A few smaller mines remain, eking out a profit and a few aluminum refineres are still open. However, major competition from Asia and South American make continued Sardinian operations un-profitable. As the waters of the Mediterranean have become over-fished, Sardinia’s traditional tuna industry has largely vanished. It’s very difficult to make a living fishing in Sardinia. Likewise, farming, still a craft practiced by small land-holders all over Sardinia is a difficult living for most families.
What you’re seeing in Sardinia is the natural progression of a historically agricultural economy into something else. The problem is that that “something else” has yet to be decided in Sardinia. The Costa Smeralda has made a huge name for itself for luxury Sardinia travel as a high-end resort. It was founded in the 1960s by a consortium of foreign investors led by Prince Karim Aga Khan. It features enchanting beaches, luxurious golf resorts, a Rolex sailing regatta, and even polo matches. While the local economy has boomed, local residents have not been very involved in the planning and growth of their golden goose. I think this is a mistake
I believe that tourism is Sardinia’s main economic hope for the future and Sardinians need to welcome Sardinia travel. I think that Sardinia’s relatively undeveloped and natural state make it an inevitable tourist destination, especially among Europeans. What is left to be decided is whether this development will happen with the consent and active participation of Sardinians or in spite of it. For my piece, I sincerely hope it’s the former and that’s part of the reason why I’ve started this blog – to both promote Sardinia and act as a voice in its future.
Sardinia needs tourists and tourism to pull itself out of its downward economic spiral. The problem is that Sardinia is suffering a sort of brain drain, with many of its best and brightest leaving Sardinia for better opportunities in mainland Italy and in the rest of Europe. How can Sardinia change this? By investing in Sardinia tourism and creating jobs for these people to stay.
Sardinians need to become involved in the future of their island if they’re going to reap the benefits of Sardinian tourism. There’s no real way to force entrepreneurism, but in my opinion (humble as it is) that’s the way it’s got to be.
Ok – I waxed on a bit longer than I anticipated, hope you enjoyed the post.
Cheers
Frankie
Sardinia Travel: Best Luxury Golfing Destinations in Sardinia
For the discerning golfer, Sardinia has two major luxury golf courses. Il Pevero, on the ritzy Costa Smeralda in the northeast, and Is Molas, only minutes outside of Cagliari. Both offer world-class accommodations among some of the most incredible scenery anywhere in the world. Golfers accustomed to playing the best courses will find technical challenges and relaxing surroundings while golfing in Sardinia.
Il Pevero, close to Porto Cervo and a favorite destination among the European elite, offers top-flight golf and is listed in the prestigious Europe Luxury Elite as well as on the PGA Europe Tour. Boasting 18 holes at 72 par, golfers can take advantage of the luxurious accommodations while playing on Sardinia’s best golf course.
A world-renowned golf school and cutting edge golf simulators mean the novice golfer can get in on the act. Enjoy the amazing scenery while learning to play with Sardinia’s best golf instructors.
The facilities have been recently updated and include a topflight pro-shop, 4-star restaurant, putting green, electric carts, swimming pool and bar.
Il Pevero Golf Club
07020 Porto Cervo, Località Cala di Volpe (SS)
Tel.: +39-0789-958000, Fax: +39-0789-96572
Is Molas, another favorite Sardinian golf course, in Santa Margherita di Pula, will delight even the pickiest of golfing buffs. Its 10 km of rolling greens against the backdrop of the Roman ruins of Nora make for a unique Sardinian golfing experience.
The course has 27 holes and stretches over 10 kilometers of beautiful scenery. The Italian Open has been held here four times, and some of the best golfers in the world have played at Is Molas, with Vijay Singh winning his first international victory in 1989.
This world class Sardinian golfing resort can also boast a 4-star hotel, excellent restaurant, pro-shop, bar, swimming pool, sauna, massage services, tennis facilities, golf carts and a golf school.
Only 20 minutes outside of Cagliari, Sardinia’s capital and largest city, luxury villas can be rented for those who don’t want to stay at the hotel.
Is Molas Golf Club
09010 Santa Margherita di Pula (CA), CP 49, SS 195 Km 30.600
Tel.: +39-070-9241013-4, Fax: +39-070-9241015
Traveling in Sardinia: A Guide for Tourists: Where to Stay in Sardinia
Where to Stay in Sardinia
Welcome to Post #2 in our Sardinia Travel Guide for Tourists series. In the last post, you learned how to get to Sardinia by ferry or airplane. Here we’ll cover some general information about Sardinia hotels, agritourismo, hostels, and camping. As always, email me with any questions not covered here. Ok, let’s go.
So you’ve arrived in Sardinia by ferry or airplane, you’ve rented a car or motorbike, and now you need a place to stay. Great. We’ve already said we’re not talking about the Costa Smeralda so go elsewhere if you want to spend tons of money. Really, you’re not wanted here. Tourists and travelers to Sardinia have several options of where to stay depending largely on budget and the sort of experience you’d like to have.
Hotels in Sardinia
Like the rest of Europe, hotels here subscribe to the star system. If you’re looking for a true hotel experience, look for 3 star and above and expect to pay somewhere around €175 per night for a standard double room in the high season (June-August). Your mileage will vary here by region but expect clean rooms, breakfast, and a location reasonably near city centers or the beach. Sardinian hotels are very family oriented and you can expect friendly – probably not prompt or efficient – service.
Some English proficiency can be expected among staff, but it will likely be limited. Bring a phrase book (you are planning to learn some Italian, right?). If you don’t know any Italian and don’t plan to learn, you’re probably better off heading to the Costa Smeralda. Please go away now.
Many hotels use online booking services or negotiate through tourist agencies. If your Italian isn’t so great it’s a good idea to use a reputable service and keep all credit card receipts handy in case of disputes. Disputes do occasionally arise, usually over a quoted rate. As in most countries, hotels are required to honor an agreed (printed) rate so bring your paperwork and stick to your guns in the face of an unscrupulous front desk.
Hostels in Sardinia
Hostels are the way to go for the serious backpacker or budget-minded tourist. In Sardinia, they are mainly clustered around the coast in major cities like Alghero and Cagliari. Filled with international travelers, they offer a cheap and cheerful alternative to hotels. Most hostels will offer mixed or single-sex dorms with 6-10 beds or private rooms with access to shared bathrooms. If you’re looking for a private hostel room, check out pensione prices as well since they will be similar. For a dorm bed, expect to pay around €20.
Cleanliness and privacy will range greatly so be sure to check out any place carefully before booking. You can find traveler ratings online for most places so homework pays here. Most hostels book online but you can easily book over the phone as well. Hostels fill up quickly in the high season, especially around major beaches so book in advance to guarantee yourself a bed.
Pensione in Sardinia
Pensione, I think, offer the sweet spot between pricey hotels and bargain hostels in Sardinia. You’re basically paying for a clean room, usually an ensuite bathroom, and sometimes a small breakfast. Think of them as an Italian B&B. No tv, no room service, and no frills. The ones I’ve stayed at are usually run by a local couple who can be great sources of information and local color.
Online, they can usually be found listed under 1 or 2 star hotels and can vary greatly in price and amenities. Expect to pay around €75-100 during the high season for a standard double room.
Agritourismo in Sardinia
Worthy of an entire post, I’m going to briefly talk about one of the coolest innovations in Sardinian tourism. Agritourismo or agricultural tourism allows you to book a room on a Sardinian farm – think organic farming meets a dude ranch – and offers a fantastic way for tourists to experience life in rural Sardinia.
Most farming in Sardinia is still very small and family oriented. While organic farming hasn’t caught on as a fad, very few farmers employ chemical or factory farming techniques, so you’ll get the organic experience without the hype. Most farms are clustered in the hills and mountains of the island so they will offer a welcome break from the beach crowds. Accommodations in agritourismo farms are usually clean if primitive. You can expect tours of vineyards, orchards, gardens, and sheepfolds, as well as all the rustic Sardinian delicacies you can eat. Highly recommended for anyone that enjoys staying off the beaten track.
Camping in Sardinia
First of all – let’s define camping. Camping for some involves recreational vehicles (RVs) or Winnebagos, while in others it evokes sleeping on the ground. One can do both in Sardinia. Most campgrounds offer a mix of accommodations, from tent pads to water and electrical hookups for RVs. Usually open only in the summer and early fall, it can be a great way to tour the Gennargentu mountains and coastal areas. Beware of camping on private land – tent campers or bike tourists may be able to get away with a furtive night here or there but do so at your own risk. Language barriers and angry dogs might make an epic out of an otherwise idyllic stay.
Got any tips or favorites? Leave a note for other readers in the comments.
Next time, a discussion of the regions of Sardinia and favorite places to visit. Thanks for checking out our series on traveling through Sardinia!
Cheers
Francesca
Sunday
Traveling in Sardinia: A Guide for Tourists: How to Get to Sardinia
Sardinia is one of the lesser-known jewels of the Mediterranean travel scene. The northeastern part of the island is known as the “Costa Smeralda” or Emerald Coast and is home to jetsetter tourism and posh resorts. We’re not going to talk about that area so much since there are plenty of other resources for that. We’re going to focus on tourism in the rest of Sardinia, where tourists rarely go and where authentic Sardinian culture can still be seen.
Sardinia is dominated by a rugged coastline, emerald waters, and imposing granite mountains. Add the warm Sardinian culture and rustic Sardinian cuisine and you have one of best off-the-beaten-track destinations left in Europe. I hope you’ll follow along as we explore the many facets of this unknown island and tips for your future Mediterranean travels.
Getting to Sardinia
Sardinia has no bridges connecting it to mainland Italy so getting there requires flying into the airports of Alghero or Cagliari or taking an overnight ferry. Flights can be taken from many European cities including: Rome, Milan, London, Paris etc. On arrival, trains, buses, or preferably cars can be had to get you wherever else you want to go.
Overnight ferries are my preferred way to get to Sardinia. From Rome, one can take a ferry from the Roman port town of Civitavecchia that will take you to Arbatax and Cagliari. One can also take ferries from Corsica, Sicily, Livorno and Tunisia.
If you’re on the cheap, just book a chair or deck seat and bring an inflatable beach mattress to stretch out on the floor. You’ll see many Sardinian budget tourists doing the same. Cabins can be had and cars can be driven onboard. It is highly recommended to come early if you plan to bring your car to avoid lines. Bring sandwiches and snacks for the trip, as the food aboard Sardinian ferries is barely edible.
Getting Around Sardinia
On arrival, your best bet will be to rent a car at either the Alghero or Cagliari airports or any of the ferry terminals for the remainder of your tour. Rental cars can be returned at many points all over the island for additional cost. I definitely recommend renting a car in advance, payable in advance, to minimize any last minute hassles. All the major car rental agencies have offices in Alghero and Cagliari as well as at other points around the island. Check for deals through AAA, or any other affiliations you may have. Always pay by credit card so that you can do a charge-back if any agent shenanigans ensue. Italians love to haggle and Sardinian tourist agencies are no different so come armed with printed reservations and a confident demeanor.
Sardinia has been the recent beneficiary of an autostrada di super-velocita, also known as a major highway. Running vaguely northwest to southeast, it takes a lot of the car-sickness and vagaries out of travel. It also removes a lot of the charm, so unless you’re in a major hurry, I recommend taking local roads whenever possible. Especially to be recommended is the coast road along the eastern coast of Sardinia.
I hope you’ve enjoyed our first list of Sardinia travel tips, stay tuned for Post #2 in our Traveling in Sardinia: A Guide For Tourist series.