As promised, here’s the other half of the post titled: Sardinia Travel: Why Tourists Should Come to Sardinia.
For the residents of Sardinia, a major European tourist destination, tourists and foreigners are a double-edged sword. On the one hand, their patronage is welcome and needed. Often, in tourist destinations, tourism is the lifeblood of the economy, employing millions in resorts, hotels, restaurants, cruise ships and in the many fringe industries that grow up around the trade.
On the other hand, tourism changes a place – look at many Caribbean islands for clear examples. Once a place becomes a tourist destination, the investors descend and buy up real estate, open huge resorts, push small local competitors out of business, and often bring outside employees at the expense of local labor. Once-public Sardinian beaches would become closed to locals, real estate and food prices rise, driven by the influx of foreign money. Pollution can become a problem when cruise ships arrive, dumping incredible amounts of waste into Sardinia’s clear waters. Crime rates often rise as wealthy Sardinian tourists become targets of pickpockets.
Since most popular tourist destinations turned to tourism because of a lack of other economic opportunities, how can a place benefit from tourist dollars without falling to the well-known traps? More specifically, why should Sardinia welcome tourism at all?
For those of you who don’t know much about the economic history of Sardinia (and southern Italy in general) here’s a brief primer. Sardinia was once a land of tremendous natural resources – mostly underground and so spent millennia being mined for precious lead, silver, coal, bauxite, and other ore deposits. Mines and their affiliated refineries, transportation, and shipping industries employed most of Sardinia. The remainder farmed, raised animals, and fished for their living, well into the 20th century.
The last 50 years, since the end of WWII have brought major changes to Sardinia’s economy. Sardinia’s natural resources are largely exhausted and the major mines have closed. A few smaller mines remain, eking out a profit and a few aluminum refineres are still open. However, major competition from Asia and South American make continued Sardinian operations un-profitable. As the waters of the Mediterranean have become over-fished, Sardinia’s traditional tuna industry has largely vanished. It’s very difficult to make a living fishing in Sardinia. Likewise, farming, still a craft practiced by small land-holders all over Sardinia is a difficult living for most families.
What you’re seeing in Sardinia is the natural progression of a historically agricultural economy into something else. The problem is that that “something else” has yet to be decided in Sardinia. The Costa Smeralda has made a huge name for itself for luxury Sardinia travel as a high-end resort. It was founded in the 1960s by a consortium of foreign investors led by Prince Karim Aga Khan. It features enchanting beaches, luxurious golf resorts, a Rolex sailing regatta, and even polo matches. While the local economy has boomed, local residents have not been very involved in the planning and growth of their golden goose. I think this is a mistake
I believe that tourism is Sardinia’s main economic hope for the future and Sardinians need to welcome Sardinia travel. I think that Sardinia’s relatively undeveloped and natural state make it an inevitable tourist destination, especially among Europeans. What is left to be decided is whether this development will happen with the consent and active participation of Sardinians or in spite of it. For my piece, I sincerely hope it’s the former and that’s part of the reason why I’ve started this blog – to both promote Sardinia and act as a voice in its future.
Sardinia needs tourists and tourism to pull itself out of its downward economic spiral. The problem is that Sardinia is suffering a sort of brain drain, with many of its best and brightest leaving Sardinia for better opportunities in mainland Italy and in the rest of Europe. How can Sardinia change this? By investing in Sardinia tourism and creating jobs for these people to stay.
Sardinians need to become involved in the future of their island if they’re going to reap the benefits of Sardinian tourism. There’s no real way to force entrepreneurism, but in my opinion (humble as it is) that’s the way it’s got to be.
Ok – I waxed on a bit longer than I anticipated, hope you enjoyed the post.
Cheers
Frankie
Showing posts with label Sardinia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sardinia. Show all posts
Wednesday
Sardinia Travel: Why Tourists should come to Sardinia
Being a bit biased, I can think of a dozen reasons why travelers should come to Sardinia. Since you obviously can’t get inside my head, I thought I might spend a few words discussing what makes Sardinia a great travel destination.
The People of Sardinia
Sardinians are the warmest, friendliest, most gregarious bunch of people you will ever meet. Again, I am a bit biased, but I have introduced many outsiders to Sardinia and they have never failed to be touched by the warmth of Sardinians. It’s a characteristic that is even remarked upon by other Italians.
Any Sardinian tourist should take the time to try and talk to the locals – I promise the rewards will be worth it. I haven’t met a single Sardinia who didn’t love talking about their favorite restaurant, beach, most beautiful view etc. Even by learning just a few phrases, visitors can make a good impression and reap the benefits. Sardinians that do speak English are usually very happy to use their knowledge with friendly outsiders – please don’t’ take this as license to act like a moron. As an American, I am more than familiar with the common breed of package tourist – don’t be like that. Get to know the locals – your travels in Sardinia will be much improved.
The Natural Beauty of Sardinia
Sardinia is an island of extraordinary natural beauty – in fact, I would say it rivals the rest of Italy. What we lack in cathedrals and monuments we make up in crystal green waters, striking rock formations, and the savage inland mountains.
Many tourists come only to the Costa Smeralda, to bask in the famous waters, but the rest of the island has its own charms. The beaches near Alghero give Porto Cervo a run for its money with a tenth of the tourists. Il Poetto near Cagliari is home to thousands of flamingos, strutting their brilliant plumage.
The rocky cliffs of Carloforte are home to rare cormorants and Bosa is a refuge to the endangered gryphon vulture. Visitors to eastern Sardinia and the Gennargentu Mountains will see shy mouflons, mountain goats, marmots, and geckos. Sardinia’s mining past opened up several underground cave systems that otherwise would never have been found. One of the most spectacular is in the southwestern corner, near Sant’Antioco.
Sardinian Cuisine
Italy is known for its gastronomy, but tourists can often be disappointed by the difficulties of finding authentic local foods and the prevalence of international chain restaurants. This is not an issue in Sardinia. Sardinians are very proud of their simple, locally-sourced fare. Anyone willing to venture two blocks away from the port will find wild boar sausage, hand-made pastas, rustic bread, and sharp sheep’s cheeses. Tuscany has nothing on Sardinian food.
Sardinian food can’t be discussed without mentioning the wines: Vernaccia, Monica, Vermentino di Gallura (one of the only four Italian DOCG white wines), Cannonau & Moscato are just the most well-known types. Wine tours of the major wineries abound but some of the most memorable tours will be of the small, local producers. Many agriturismi have vineyards and will be happy to show off their best vintages for guests.
Sardinia is still very much an insular and isolated place so the food and culture is still very much influenced by what is grown, raised, fished, and hunted on the island. Most farms are still smaller affairs, lacking the commercial factory farming found in many other parts of the world. Many farmers will be working the same land that their parents and grandparents worked. Many families who have moved off the land (my own included) still maintain small plots to keep the land in the family. WWII was not so long ago, and many elders still remember hoarding the produce from their farms and hiding it from the Italian fascists.
Ok – that went a bit more long winded than I had intended. Regarless, there are several reasons why tourists should come to Sardinia. Now – the next post I should write should be about why Sardinians should welcome tourists. Next time….
Frankie
The People of Sardinia
Sardinians are the warmest, friendliest, most gregarious bunch of people you will ever meet. Again, I am a bit biased, but I have introduced many outsiders to Sardinia and they have never failed to be touched by the warmth of Sardinians. It’s a characteristic that is even remarked upon by other Italians.
Any Sardinian tourist should take the time to try and talk to the locals – I promise the rewards will be worth it. I haven’t met a single Sardinia who didn’t love talking about their favorite restaurant, beach, most beautiful view etc. Even by learning just a few phrases, visitors can make a good impression and reap the benefits. Sardinians that do speak English are usually very happy to use their knowledge with friendly outsiders – please don’t’ take this as license to act like a moron. As an American, I am more than familiar with the common breed of package tourist – don’t be like that. Get to know the locals – your travels in Sardinia will be much improved.
The Natural Beauty of Sardinia
Sardinia is an island of extraordinary natural beauty – in fact, I would say it rivals the rest of Italy. What we lack in cathedrals and monuments we make up in crystal green waters, striking rock formations, and the savage inland mountains.
Many tourists come only to the Costa Smeralda, to bask in the famous waters, but the rest of the island has its own charms. The beaches near Alghero give Porto Cervo a run for its money with a tenth of the tourists. Il Poetto near Cagliari is home to thousands of flamingos, strutting their brilliant plumage.
The rocky cliffs of Carloforte are home to rare cormorants and Bosa is a refuge to the endangered gryphon vulture. Visitors to eastern Sardinia and the Gennargentu Mountains will see shy mouflons, mountain goats, marmots, and geckos. Sardinia’s mining past opened up several underground cave systems that otherwise would never have been found. One of the most spectacular is in the southwestern corner, near Sant’Antioco.
Sardinian Cuisine
Italy is known for its gastronomy, but tourists can often be disappointed by the difficulties of finding authentic local foods and the prevalence of international chain restaurants. This is not an issue in Sardinia. Sardinians are very proud of their simple, locally-sourced fare. Anyone willing to venture two blocks away from the port will find wild boar sausage, hand-made pastas, rustic bread, and sharp sheep’s cheeses. Tuscany has nothing on Sardinian food.
Sardinian food can’t be discussed without mentioning the wines: Vernaccia, Monica, Vermentino di Gallura (one of the only four Italian DOCG white wines), Cannonau & Moscato are just the most well-known types. Wine tours of the major wineries abound but some of the most memorable tours will be of the small, local producers. Many agriturismi have vineyards and will be happy to show off their best vintages for guests.
Sardinia is still very much an insular and isolated place so the food and culture is still very much influenced by what is grown, raised, fished, and hunted on the island. Most farms are still smaller affairs, lacking the commercial factory farming found in many other parts of the world. Many farmers will be working the same land that their parents and grandparents worked. Many families who have moved off the land (my own included) still maintain small plots to keep the land in the family. WWII was not so long ago, and many elders still remember hoarding the produce from their farms and hiding it from the Italian fascists.
Ok – that went a bit more long winded than I had intended. Regarless, there are several reasons why tourists should come to Sardinia. Now – the next post I should write should be about why Sardinians should welcome tourists. Next time….
Frankie
Sardinia Travel: Best Sardinia Hostels, Part 1
Many travelers in Sardinia like to stay in hostels and 1-star hotels. So do I. For that purpose, I've put together a list of hostels I've stayed at while traveling in Sardinia or heard of and included online reviews for your traveling pleasure. I'm not going to include an agriturismi in this post - those will come later. Most hostels in Sardinia are part of the Hostelling International community, so paying for an HI membership is well worth it – you’ll get better prices.
Since the bulk of Sardinian tourism is clustered around the coasts, most Sardinia hostels are also along the coast since the backpacking set tend to like beaches. Go figure. To kick of our list, let's start in Alghero.
Best hostel in Alghero
Ostelli di Alghero
Via Parenzo n° 79 Fertilia (Sassari), Alghero
Price: Dorm beds from €15. Private rooms from €20/person. Seasonal prices may vary.
Lively, clean, attracts world travelers
The best hostel in Alghero isn't actually in Alghero. It's in Fertilia, about five km from central Alghero. Since Sardinia's second-biggest airport is also in Fertilia, it makes sense right? I last stayed at Ostelli di Alghero in 2006 and found it clean, quiet, but lacking in a communal kitchen. If cooking your own 4-star meals is your thing, stay elsewhere, but I got along just fine on sandwiches and salads. It’s on the bus line directly from Alghero and the airport, so it’s very easy to get to. Fertilia is very much a bedroom community, so shops and bars are few, but you’ll be spending most of your time in Alghero anyway.
The best part of the hostel is its proximity to the beaches of Lazaretto, Le Bombarde, and the closest – Punta Negra. Punta negra is literally a 5 minute walk, but I’d recommend throwing on some comfortable shoes and heading straight for Le Bombarde, really one of the nicest beaches in Sardinia.
Highly recommended for those including Alghero in their Sardinia travels.
Best hostel near Castelsardo
Golfo Dell'Asinara Hostel
Via Sardegna 1
07031 Loc Lu Bagnu
Castelsardo (SS)
Tel. +39-079-474031
Fax. +39-079-474031
ostello.asinara@tiscali.it
Price: Dorm beds from €13, private rooms vary. Seasonal prices may vary.
Quiet, relaxing, attracts interesting people
Castelsardo is an old fortress town from the Genoese Doria days. It’s named after the huge castle towering over the village which actually used to be called Casteldoria – after the Doria family that built it. However, once Sardinia officially became part of Italy in the 1800s, it seemed more political to name it Castelsardo. It’s a lovely village and sits along the coastal roads between Porto Cervo and Alghero. Well worth a stop to visit some of the beaches and check out the castle.
The hostel is in Lu Bagnu, a holiday village about five km from Castelsardo. Although I havne’t stayed there personally, I have it on excellent authority that it’s quiet, and attracts interesting travelers – not the typical Grand Tour of Europe types. From the hostel, you can take a bus directly to and from Fertilia airport, Castelsardo, and Valledoria places you won’t want to miss while traveling in Sardinia. You can also rent bikes, canoes, and take guided treks along the countryside. The hostel overlooks the sea and has a nice veranda.
Recommended for those looking for a laid-back, quiet holiday in Sardinia.
Best hostel in Bosa
Hostel Malaspina
Via Sardegna 1
08013 Bosa NUORO
Tel. +39-346-2363844 / 339 7751121
Fax. +39-0785-375649
valevacanzesardegna@hotmail.it
Prices: €13 for dorm beds, private rooms vary.
Lively, attracts divers and windsurfers
Bosa is one of my favorite active vacation spots with opportunities for excursions: like guided tours to the last colony of gryphon vultures, windsurfing, and Sardinia scuba-diving outings among spectacular coral kingdoms.
The city has fascinating ruins of the Malaspina Castle, built in 1112, but the town’s existence, at the source of one of Sardinia’s few rivers, can be documented even father back by Phoenician inscriptions from the 9th century BC. There is also numerous other evidence from the prehistoric era like the Domus de Janas and the nuraghi (prehistoric stone houses).
The hostel is very close to a good windsurfing beach and offers clean rooms and free European breakfast. The city center, with shops, bars, and the castle ruins are an easy 20-30 minute walk or a 10 minute bus ride from a bus that stops a block away.
The hostel staff speaks excellent English and can help you arrange any activities, including bike or kayak rentals, as well as scuba and snorkeling excursions.
Recommended for active Sardinia travelers.
Since the bulk of Sardinian tourism is clustered around the coasts, most Sardinia hostels are also along the coast since the backpacking set tend to like beaches. Go figure. To kick of our list, let's start in Alghero.
Best hostel in Alghero
Ostelli di Alghero
Via Parenzo n° 79 Fertilia (Sassari), Alghero
Price: Dorm beds from €15. Private rooms from €20/person. Seasonal prices may vary.
Lively, clean, attracts world travelers
The best hostel in Alghero isn't actually in Alghero. It's in Fertilia, about five km from central Alghero. Since Sardinia's second-biggest airport is also in Fertilia, it makes sense right? I last stayed at Ostelli di Alghero in 2006 and found it clean, quiet, but lacking in a communal kitchen. If cooking your own 4-star meals is your thing, stay elsewhere, but I got along just fine on sandwiches and salads. It’s on the bus line directly from Alghero and the airport, so it’s very easy to get to. Fertilia is very much a bedroom community, so shops and bars are few, but you’ll be spending most of your time in Alghero anyway.
The best part of the hostel is its proximity to the beaches of Lazaretto, Le Bombarde, and the closest – Punta Negra. Punta negra is literally a 5 minute walk, but I’d recommend throwing on some comfortable shoes and heading straight for Le Bombarde, really one of the nicest beaches in Sardinia.
Highly recommended for those including Alghero in their Sardinia travels.
Best hostel near Castelsardo
Golfo Dell'Asinara Hostel
Via Sardegna 1
07031 Loc Lu Bagnu
Castelsardo (SS)
Tel. +39-079-474031
Fax. +39-079-474031
ostello.asinara@tiscali.it
Price: Dorm beds from €13, private rooms vary. Seasonal prices may vary.
Quiet, relaxing, attracts interesting people
Castelsardo is an old fortress town from the Genoese Doria days. It’s named after the huge castle towering over the village which actually used to be called Casteldoria – after the Doria family that built it. However, once Sardinia officially became part of Italy in the 1800s, it seemed more political to name it Castelsardo. It’s a lovely village and sits along the coastal roads between Porto Cervo and Alghero. Well worth a stop to visit some of the beaches and check out the castle.
The hostel is in Lu Bagnu, a holiday village about five km from Castelsardo. Although I havne’t stayed there personally, I have it on excellent authority that it’s quiet, and attracts interesting travelers – not the typical Grand Tour of Europe types. From the hostel, you can take a bus directly to and from Fertilia airport, Castelsardo, and Valledoria places you won’t want to miss while traveling in Sardinia. You can also rent bikes, canoes, and take guided treks along the countryside. The hostel overlooks the sea and has a nice veranda.
Recommended for those looking for a laid-back, quiet holiday in Sardinia.
Best hostel in Bosa
Hostel Malaspina
Via Sardegna 1
08013 Bosa NUORO
Tel. +39-346-2363844 / 339 7751121
Fax. +39-0785-375649
valevacanzesardegna@hotmail.it
Prices: €13 for dorm beds, private rooms vary.
Lively, attracts divers and windsurfers
Bosa is one of my favorite active vacation spots with opportunities for excursions: like guided tours to the last colony of gryphon vultures, windsurfing, and Sardinia scuba-diving outings among spectacular coral kingdoms.
The city has fascinating ruins of the Malaspina Castle, built in 1112, but the town’s existence, at the source of one of Sardinia’s few rivers, can be documented even father back by Phoenician inscriptions from the 9th century BC. There is also numerous other evidence from the prehistoric era like the Domus de Janas and the nuraghi (prehistoric stone houses).
The hostel is very close to a good windsurfing beach and offers clean rooms and free European breakfast. The city center, with shops, bars, and the castle ruins are an easy 20-30 minute walk or a 10 minute bus ride from a bus that stops a block away.
The hostel staff speaks excellent English and can help you arrange any activities, including bike or kayak rentals, as well as scuba and snorkeling excursions.
Recommended for active Sardinia travelers.
Tuesday
Sardinia Travel Guide: Southern Sardinia Cycling Itinerary
Welcome back for more cycle touring information on biking Sardinia.If you joined us for the last post, I'm assuming you took a ferry to Cagliari, spent some time there, and now you're heading south along the coast. If you're looking for other itineraries, be patient, I'll cover those in future posts. Onward!
Cycling Sardinia's southern coast
My favorite route out of Cagliari - and this is just personal preference - is to head south along the SS195 or Strada Statale Sultitana towards Pula. Right about half-way, once I get outside Orti Su Loi, I deviate onto the local road to follow the coastline. Stop outside Pula to see the Nora Phoenician settlement and have a swim at any of the beaches along the way. Depending on how hard you want to push you can make it all the way to Porto Pino, but I would recommend Chia as a good stopping point. There are some ancient roman ruins and several good camping areas along the way. Chia offers several nice hotels as well if the days in the seat are wearing on you.
The second day, I continue along the coastline, hitting a couple of 16th century towers and reach Sant'Antioco. Crossing the bridge, I'll take the SS126bis to Calasetta, a lovely old Genoese settlement known for its red roofs and odd dialect. There are two popular beaches in town, on opposite sides of the town.
Spend the night in town or outside at one of the many campgrounds and then tour around the island before taking the bridge back to mainland Sardinia. There are several old mines and ore processing facilities at Buggerru and Planusartu. Well worth a trip and some pictures since these used to be the lifeblood of old Sardinia. My recollection is that these mines were begun by prehistoric Sardinians, before even the Phoenicians and Romans arrived. Amazing that they were in use as late as the 1970s, some of them. If you call ahead, you might luck into an English-speaking tour guide, but probably not.
Head up the road to Bruncu Teula and take a break for some clamming. There are several kilometers of marshland where you can wade in on your hands and knees and gather the tiny white clams. If you're there in the summer, wildfires are a huge threat so the carabinieri tend to crack down on unauthorized fires. I like to haul out my camp stove and cook up some pasta with garlic and the fresh Sardinian clams. Delicious. The marshes can be pretty pungent so I wouldn't recommend bedding down for the night too close.
If you continue along to Portovesme, you can catch a ferry to Carloforte, a tiny Sardinian island with a vivid tuna fishing history. The ferry will drop you in the center of town where you can grab the local pizzette - thick slices of pizza and a glass of Ichnusa. Head north out of the town to the old Tonnara - tuna fishery to check out the ancient fishing boats. If you're lucky, in the summer they host weekly concerts by popular Italian musicians. One of my favorite Sardinia travel experiences was seeing Antonella Ruggieru here against the backdrop of these rotting hulks with a sky of stars above.
If you bike around to the far side of Carloforte, you can rent kayaks and check out some of the amazing caves carved into the granite cliffs. They fill at high tide and can be dangerous when the waves are high, so be sure to check with locals before venturing out. If you can go, keep an eye our for cormorants and their cliff side nests.
I'm no geologist but the rocky origins of Sardinia are fascinating, with volcanic rocks mixed with sedimentary and carved by the incessant wind into bizarre formations. If you're interested, I'd highly recommend finding a geologic guide to the island.
Speaking of the wind - as a cyclist it'll have a big effect on your comfort while riding. The predominant winds are northwestern - the maestrale - which blows cool and dry from France, across the Rhone valley. It's especially strong in winter and can kick up mighty waves. It alternates with the Levante, or eastern wind, which is milder and more humid. The wind to watch out for is the Scirocco, the dry, dusty southern wind which brings red dust from the Sahara. I usually stay off the bike on those days since the dust gets in my eyes and coats everything in red powder.
Take the ferry back to Portovesme and take the road north out of Portoscuso to Capoterra, an outcropping of rock with an old WWII lookout post. Wandering among the rocks and concrete bunkers, imagine having to keep a constant lookout for Allied submarines sliding silently through the water.
Continuing north along the Costa Verde, you'll find yourself among rolling hills thick with vegetation and some pretty wild rock formations. The green bushes you've been seeing along the way are juniper, macchia mediterranea (literally, mediterranean stain) and wild olive trees.
Take the coastal road and keep an eye out for Pan di Zucchero, a brilliant white rock formation a hundred meters off the coast. Follow the road north and stop at Fontanamare, one of Sardinia's best beaches. There's camping for RVs fairly close by, but they'll take tent campers as well if you ask. Watch out for strong currents along the beach, they've been known to pull the unwary out to sea. As in all things, just watch what the locals are doing.
Ok, here you have a choice, you can continue up the western coast until you hit Alghero, visiting Portixeddu and Arbus along the way or you can break off and head inland. I'm a fan of the inland route towards the northeastern part of the island and the Costa Smeralda. The interior of Sardinia is a completely different world from the coast, characterized by remote, dusty roads, rocky hills, and herds of wild horses and shy mouflons. I like a route taking me towards the village of Villanovaforru.
Stay tuned for more route information through the center of the island.
Frankie
Cycling Sardinia's southern coast
My favorite route out of Cagliari - and this is just personal preference - is to head south along the SS195 or Strada Statale Sultitana towards Pula. Right about half-way, once I get outside Orti Su Loi, I deviate onto the local road to follow the coastline. Stop outside Pula to see the Nora Phoenician settlement and have a swim at any of the beaches along the way. Depending on how hard you want to push you can make it all the way to Porto Pino, but I would recommend Chia as a good stopping point. There are some ancient roman ruins and several good camping areas along the way. Chia offers several nice hotels as well if the days in the seat are wearing on you.
The second day, I continue along the coastline, hitting a couple of 16th century towers and reach Sant'Antioco. Crossing the bridge, I'll take the SS126bis to Calasetta, a lovely old Genoese settlement known for its red roofs and odd dialect. There are two popular beaches in town, on opposite sides of the town.
Spend the night in town or outside at one of the many campgrounds and then tour around the island before taking the bridge back to mainland Sardinia. There are several old mines and ore processing facilities at Buggerru and Planusartu. Well worth a trip and some pictures since these used to be the lifeblood of old Sardinia. My recollection is that these mines were begun by prehistoric Sardinians, before even the Phoenicians and Romans arrived. Amazing that they were in use as late as the 1970s, some of them. If you call ahead, you might luck into an English-speaking tour guide, but probably not.
Head up the road to Bruncu Teula and take a break for some clamming. There are several kilometers of marshland where you can wade in on your hands and knees and gather the tiny white clams. If you're there in the summer, wildfires are a huge threat so the carabinieri tend to crack down on unauthorized fires. I like to haul out my camp stove and cook up some pasta with garlic and the fresh Sardinian clams. Delicious. The marshes can be pretty pungent so I wouldn't recommend bedding down for the night too close.
If you continue along to Portovesme, you can catch a ferry to Carloforte, a tiny Sardinian island with a vivid tuna fishing history. The ferry will drop you in the center of town where you can grab the local pizzette - thick slices of pizza and a glass of Ichnusa. Head north out of the town to the old Tonnara - tuna fishery to check out the ancient fishing boats. If you're lucky, in the summer they host weekly concerts by popular Italian musicians. One of my favorite Sardinia travel experiences was seeing Antonella Ruggieru here against the backdrop of these rotting hulks with a sky of stars above.
If you bike around to the far side of Carloforte, you can rent kayaks and check out some of the amazing caves carved into the granite cliffs. They fill at high tide and can be dangerous when the waves are high, so be sure to check with locals before venturing out. If you can go, keep an eye our for cormorants and their cliff side nests.
I'm no geologist but the rocky origins of Sardinia are fascinating, with volcanic rocks mixed with sedimentary and carved by the incessant wind into bizarre formations. If you're interested, I'd highly recommend finding a geologic guide to the island.
Speaking of the wind - as a cyclist it'll have a big effect on your comfort while riding. The predominant winds are northwestern - the maestrale - which blows cool and dry from France, across the Rhone valley. It's especially strong in winter and can kick up mighty waves. It alternates with the Levante, or eastern wind, which is milder and more humid. The wind to watch out for is the Scirocco, the dry, dusty southern wind which brings red dust from the Sahara. I usually stay off the bike on those days since the dust gets in my eyes and coats everything in red powder.
Take the ferry back to Portovesme and take the road north out of Portoscuso to Capoterra, an outcropping of rock with an old WWII lookout post. Wandering among the rocks and concrete bunkers, imagine having to keep a constant lookout for Allied submarines sliding silently through the water.
Continuing north along the Costa Verde, you'll find yourself among rolling hills thick with vegetation and some pretty wild rock formations. The green bushes you've been seeing along the way are juniper, macchia mediterranea (literally, mediterranean stain) and wild olive trees.
Take the coastal road and keep an eye out for Pan di Zucchero, a brilliant white rock formation a hundred meters off the coast. Follow the road north and stop at Fontanamare, one of Sardinia's best beaches. There's camping for RVs fairly close by, but they'll take tent campers as well if you ask. Watch out for strong currents along the beach, they've been known to pull the unwary out to sea. As in all things, just watch what the locals are doing.
Ok, here you have a choice, you can continue up the western coast until you hit Alghero, visiting Portixeddu and Arbus along the way or you can break off and head inland. I'm a fan of the inland route towards the northeastern part of the island and the Costa Smeralda. The interior of Sardinia is a completely different world from the coast, characterized by remote, dusty roads, rocky hills, and herds of wild horses and shy mouflons. I like a route taking me towards the village of Villanovaforru.
Stay tuned for more route information through the center of the island.
Frankie
Sardinia Travel: An Introduction to Cycle Touring in Sardinia
I've been wanting to write on this topic for awhile since cycle touring is one of my favorite ways to travel in Sardinia. Here we'll discuss the basics about cycling in Sardinia, where to stay while touring, and what to expect on the road.
If you're not sure what cycle touring is, check out an excellent overview of the history and common practices at Wikipedia.
Options for Cycle Touring in Sardinia
I personally am a fully self-supported cycle tourist - meaning that I pack all my belongings on my bike and stay in tents on the road. I prefer this way to travel through Sardinia as it's cheaper, more intense, and gives me greater flexibility on the road.
Another option is known as credit-card touring, where cyclists may bring their necessities along but plan to stay in hostels or hotels along the way and eat in restaurants. Both have their adherents and advantages among tourists in Sardinia.
There are many companies offering cycle touring trips complete with guides, rest stops, SAG wagons and food on mainland Italy. To my knowledge, the only one currently operating in Sardinia is DolceVita Bike Tours operating out of Pula, in the south. I know one of the guys operating it and they are very friendly, speak excellent English, and offer both mountain biking & road tours. That being said....organize your own trips, you'll appreciate it much more. For those who will insist on paying for a guided tour...sigh...here's their information:
DolceVita Cycling Tours
Viale Segni, 16 09010 Pula (CA) - Italy
ph & fax +39/070/9209885
info@dolcevitabiketours.com
www.dolcevitabiketours.com
Definitely check out their website for some good itinerary ideas even if you don't plan to book through them.
If you're planning on bringing a bicycle to Sardinia, your best bet will be to fly it to the mainland and then take a ferry from Livorno, Civitavecchia, or Sicily. Most ferries will charge a bit extra for the cycle but it's not nearly as expensive as a flight and you have a smaller risk of damage to your bike. I'd highly recommend Cagliari as a jumping-off point if it's your first trip. The city is lovely and it gives you a chance to iron out any problems before you get anywhere remote.
Arriving in Cagliari, if you intend to spend a few days touring the city you'll need to find a place to stay. I've had good luck with the Hotel Miramare near the waterfront. It's definitely a budget hotel and they're used to odd travelers tumbling in off the Sardinia ferries.
Hotel Miramare
Via Roma, 59
09124 Cagliari (Cagliari), Italy
+39 070 664 021
hotelmiramarecagliari.it
Another option, which I fully plan to check out on my next trip cycle touring in Sardinia is a campground I've heard of on the eastern side of the city, along the water in Quartu Sant'Elena called Pini e Mare (Groves & Sea). Can't really rate it for you, but here's the details. If the website is to be believed, it has spectacular access to the water.
Pini e Mare
Strada Statale 554, Km. 12
09045 Quartu Sant'Elena (CA), Italy
+39 070 803103
http://web.tiscali.it/piniemare/
So, wheel yourself off the ferry, grab a bite to eat and find a place to stay. Fair warning - theft is a major problem in Sardinia, so chain it, lock it, chain it again, and don't stray too far. Travel insurance is something I highly recommend in the event your ride gets stolen.
Repairs while Cycle Touring in Sardinia
If you're going to need repairs on the road or need to pick up a few spare parts, I've had excellent experiences with Bike Park Shop in the Quartu Sant'Elena area of Cagliari. Some of the techs even speak English (my knowledge of Italian cycling terms is pretty grave) and can give excellent advice on the best routes and trails. You might luck into a few other places in your travels but don't bet on it. Pick up what you need here.
Bike Park Shop
via marconi, 45
09045 Quartu S.E (CA), Italy
+39 070 837 301
Along the road, you're going to be responsible for your own bike repairs, so make sure you've packed spare tubes and tyres and know how to use them. Depending on the length of your travels and how much off-roading you plan to do, you shouldn't have too many frame problems. Brake & gear wire is also something I bring since I seem to have a problem with breaking them on the road.
Cycling on Sardinia's Roads
Ok, so you've gotten to Sardinia, made any last minute repairs, spent a couple of days in Cagliari and now you're ready to get on the road. Great! Sardinia actually has pretty good roads so hard-core road cyclists won't have a problem as long as they stay on the pavement. That being said, I'm kind of a maverick - in that Sarah Palin way wink, wink - and I like the freedom of straying off the pavement onto some of those fascinating dirt roads. So I'd recommend anyone planning any cycle touring in Sardinia invest in a touring-specific bike. I'm not going to list any manufacturers, but touring bikes have solid steel frames, fatter tyres, and are built to carry loads. No wimpy carbon or aluminum frames for us!
Next time.... An itinerary along the southern and western coasts!
Frankie
If you're not sure what cycle touring is, check out an excellent overview of the history and common practices at Wikipedia.
Options for Cycle Touring in Sardinia
I personally am a fully self-supported cycle tourist - meaning that I pack all my belongings on my bike and stay in tents on the road. I prefer this way to travel through Sardinia as it's cheaper, more intense, and gives me greater flexibility on the road.
Another option is known as credit-card touring, where cyclists may bring their necessities along but plan to stay in hostels or hotels along the way and eat in restaurants. Both have their adherents and advantages among tourists in Sardinia.
There are many companies offering cycle touring trips complete with guides, rest stops, SAG wagons and food on mainland Italy. To my knowledge, the only one currently operating in Sardinia is DolceVita Bike Tours operating out of Pula, in the south. I know one of the guys operating it and they are very friendly, speak excellent English, and offer both mountain biking & road tours. That being said....organize your own trips, you'll appreciate it much more. For those who will insist on paying for a guided tour...sigh...here's their information:
DolceVita Cycling Tours
Viale Segni, 16 09010 Pula (CA) - Italy
ph & fax +39/070/9209885
info@dolcevitabiketours.com
www.dolcevitabiketours.com
Definitely check out their website for some good itinerary ideas even if you don't plan to book through them.
If you're planning on bringing a bicycle to Sardinia, your best bet will be to fly it to the mainland and then take a ferry from Livorno, Civitavecchia, or Sicily. Most ferries will charge a bit extra for the cycle but it's not nearly as expensive as a flight and you have a smaller risk of damage to your bike. I'd highly recommend Cagliari as a jumping-off point if it's your first trip. The city is lovely and it gives you a chance to iron out any problems before you get anywhere remote.
Arriving in Cagliari, if you intend to spend a few days touring the city you'll need to find a place to stay. I've had good luck with the Hotel Miramare near the waterfront. It's definitely a budget hotel and they're used to odd travelers tumbling in off the Sardinia ferries.
Hotel Miramare
Via Roma, 59
09124 Cagliari (Cagliari), Italy
+39 070 664 021
hotelmiramarecagliari.it
Another option, which I fully plan to check out on my next trip cycle touring in Sardinia is a campground I've heard of on the eastern side of the city, along the water in Quartu Sant'Elena called Pini e Mare (Groves & Sea). Can't really rate it for you, but here's the details. If the website is to be believed, it has spectacular access to the water.
Pini e Mare
Strada Statale 554, Km. 12
09045 Quartu Sant'Elena (CA), Italy
+39 070 803103
http://web.tiscali.it/piniemare/
So, wheel yourself off the ferry, grab a bite to eat and find a place to stay. Fair warning - theft is a major problem in Sardinia, so chain it, lock it, chain it again, and don't stray too far. Travel insurance is something I highly recommend in the event your ride gets stolen.
Repairs while Cycle Touring in Sardinia
If you're going to need repairs on the road or need to pick up a few spare parts, I've had excellent experiences with Bike Park Shop in the Quartu Sant'Elena area of Cagliari. Some of the techs even speak English (my knowledge of Italian cycling terms is pretty grave) and can give excellent advice on the best routes and trails. You might luck into a few other places in your travels but don't bet on it. Pick up what you need here.
Bike Park Shop
via marconi, 45
09045 Quartu S.E (CA), Italy
+39 070 837 301
Along the road, you're going to be responsible for your own bike repairs, so make sure you've packed spare tubes and tyres and know how to use them. Depending on the length of your travels and how much off-roading you plan to do, you shouldn't have too many frame problems. Brake & gear wire is also something I bring since I seem to have a problem with breaking them on the road.
Cycling on Sardinia's Roads
Ok, so you've gotten to Sardinia, made any last minute repairs, spent a couple of days in Cagliari and now you're ready to get on the road. Great! Sardinia actually has pretty good roads so hard-core road cyclists won't have a problem as long as they stay on the pavement. That being said, I'm kind of a maverick - in that Sarah Palin way wink, wink - and I like the freedom of straying off the pavement onto some of those fascinating dirt roads. So I'd recommend anyone planning any cycle touring in Sardinia invest in a touring-specific bike. I'm not going to list any manufacturers, but touring bikes have solid steel frames, fatter tyres, and are built to carry loads. No wimpy carbon or aluminum frames for us!
Next time.... An itinerary along the southern and western coasts!
Frankie
Monday
Sardinia Travel Guide's 1 day itinerary: Alghero
In my quest to bring the wonders of traveling Sardinia to the English-speaking traveler, I’m introducing a new feature: the X-day itinerary. Since many travelers are daytrippers from Sicily and Corsica, weekenders from Britain or mainland Italy, I want to feature itineraries that the average Sardinia tourist might find interesting. Please feel free to leave opinions in the comments. I might even respond. To kick everything off, I bring you:
Sardinia Travel Guide: Alghero: a 1-day itinerary.
Alghero is one of my favorite Sardinian destinations. To me, it embodies both Sardinia’s ancient and often violent history with modern vibrancy. Many tourists (myself included) take advantage of Ryanair’s cheap London flights to Alghero’s Fertilia airport. For convenience (my own) I’m going to assume you’ve taken the earliest flight and have arrived in time for breakfast. Great!
Rent a car, take the bus, hitchhike over to Via Garibaldi, along the busy waterfront. It shouldn’t be hard as most of the roads through the city dead-end at the port. Grab yourself a caffe e latte and a pastry at any of the bars along the way and start walking towards the fortress.
Visiting the Grotta di Nettuno
Topping my list of top 5 things to see in Sardinia is the spectacular Neptune’s Grotto, a sea cavern carved from a sheer granite cliff. It boasts winding tunnels and spectacular stalactite formations.
The best way to see it is to take one of the boats you’ll see tied up along the waterfront. The tour operators will most-likely speak English so be sure to ask what the conditions are and whether the boat will be able to dock at the cave. This way you’ll get to see the spectacular coastline along Capo Caccia along with the cave.
Your second option if the boats aren’t running, or if you prefer the hike is to take the bus (buy tickets at the Tourist Office in Piazza Porta Terra) and climb down the 650+ steps along the cliff to the cave at the bottom. The bonus here is that you’ll see the views from the top. The obvious con is that you’ll have to drag yourself up 650+ steps.
Whichever way you get there, give yourself 2-3 hours to enjoy the outing. Which will bring us to lunch.
I’m a fan of a slice of pizza on the run, eaten along the fortress wall, but if you’d like lunch with a view, check out Al Vecchio Mulino, with seating on the terrace overlooking the water on Via Don Deroma. Order the 4 Stagioni, it’s brilliant. Try it with a bottle of Ichnusa, Sardinia’s local brew. Named for the Phoenician word for Sardinia, it’s really the only Italian beer worth drinking.
Afternoons, especially in the summer, are sleepy, with most of the locals heading home for lunch and a snooze. Take this time to wander around the old city walls, dating back to the 1100s. Originally built when Alghero was first founded as a Genoese colony, they were expanded at various time in the 1300s under Aragonese and then Catalan rule.
If you’re running from the heat, be sure to visit the Cathedral of St. Mary (Cattedrale di Santa Maria), who’s bell tower dominates the walls. You’ll see examples of Catalan-Gothic architecture. Take the time to light a candle and wander around the nave, which is in the Renaissance style. Don’t be put off by the odd modern façade, it was added in the 20th century.
For the rest of the afternoon, I’m giving you two options: continue wandering the streets along the walls, visiting the Torre del Portal di Alghero, a tower built in the 1370s by Catalan Jews, or visiting the beach at Lazaretto.
Lazaretto is one of the two most beautiful beaches in Sardinia. Famous for its mild current and limpid green water, it shows off the Sardinian coastline to its best. Be sure to grab another Ichnusa at one of the beachside bars. To get there take the SS127bis along the coast, from the city center. Buses travel there on the hour in the summer months. Just look for the beach kids in their towels.
After an afternoon of wandering or beach bumming, you’re going to be hungry and in the mood for one of Alghero’s hidden gems: Ristorante Daps.
If you like dining al fresco, then this is the place for you. It’s a bit hidden, over a brook and through the woods, but very worth the effort. You’ll find it on the north-eastern side of the town, on the way back to Fertilia airport. Get there as early as you can, as the outside seating fills up fast.
The best things on the menu are the frutti di mare appetizer, any of the pizzas, or the housecured Sardinian sausage. Pair it with a local Monica di Sardegna (dry red wine) and you’re in gastronomic heaven.
Ristorante Daps.
Via f.lli Cervi, 16 - 079 950050
Nightlife in Alghero is rather limited in the off-season, but if you’re there in the summer, I highly recommend the Miques De Murall club on via Giuseppe Manno, along the seawall. The cocktails are excellent and the music goes all night long. If you’re more into the live music scene, check out Baronda Bar at Piazza della Misericordia.
Ok – that’s it for our first 1-day itinerary. I’m tired already.
Frankie
Sardinia Travel Guide: Alghero: a 1-day itinerary.
Alghero is one of my favorite Sardinian destinations. To me, it embodies both Sardinia’s ancient and often violent history with modern vibrancy. Many tourists (myself included) take advantage of Ryanair’s cheap London flights to Alghero’s Fertilia airport. For convenience (my own) I’m going to assume you’ve taken the earliest flight and have arrived in time for breakfast. Great!
Rent a car, take the bus, hitchhike over to Via Garibaldi, along the busy waterfront. It shouldn’t be hard as most of the roads through the city dead-end at the port. Grab yourself a caffe e latte and a pastry at any of the bars along the way and start walking towards the fortress.
Visiting the Grotta di Nettuno
Topping my list of top 5 things to see in Sardinia is the spectacular Neptune’s Grotto, a sea cavern carved from a sheer granite cliff. It boasts winding tunnels and spectacular stalactite formations.
The best way to see it is to take one of the boats you’ll see tied up along the waterfront. The tour operators will most-likely speak English so be sure to ask what the conditions are and whether the boat will be able to dock at the cave. This way you’ll get to see the spectacular coastline along Capo Caccia along with the cave.
Your second option if the boats aren’t running, or if you prefer the hike is to take the bus (buy tickets at the Tourist Office in Piazza Porta Terra) and climb down the 650+ steps along the cliff to the cave at the bottom. The bonus here is that you’ll see the views from the top. The obvious con is that you’ll have to drag yourself up 650+ steps.
Whichever way you get there, give yourself 2-3 hours to enjoy the outing. Which will bring us to lunch.
I’m a fan of a slice of pizza on the run, eaten along the fortress wall, but if you’d like lunch with a view, check out Al Vecchio Mulino, with seating on the terrace overlooking the water on Via Don Deroma. Order the 4 Stagioni, it’s brilliant. Try it with a bottle of Ichnusa, Sardinia’s local brew. Named for the Phoenician word for Sardinia, it’s really the only Italian beer worth drinking.
Afternoons, especially in the summer, are sleepy, with most of the locals heading home for lunch and a snooze. Take this time to wander around the old city walls, dating back to the 1100s. Originally built when Alghero was first founded as a Genoese colony, they were expanded at various time in the 1300s under Aragonese and then Catalan rule.
If you’re running from the heat, be sure to visit the Cathedral of St. Mary (Cattedrale di Santa Maria), who’s bell tower dominates the walls. You’ll see examples of Catalan-Gothic architecture. Take the time to light a candle and wander around the nave, which is in the Renaissance style. Don’t be put off by the odd modern façade, it was added in the 20th century.
For the rest of the afternoon, I’m giving you two options: continue wandering the streets along the walls, visiting the Torre del Portal di Alghero, a tower built in the 1370s by Catalan Jews, or visiting the beach at Lazaretto.
Lazaretto is one of the two most beautiful beaches in Sardinia. Famous for its mild current and limpid green water, it shows off the Sardinian coastline to its best. Be sure to grab another Ichnusa at one of the beachside bars. To get there take the SS127bis along the coast, from the city center. Buses travel there on the hour in the summer months. Just look for the beach kids in their towels.
After an afternoon of wandering or beach bumming, you’re going to be hungry and in the mood for one of Alghero’s hidden gems: Ristorante Daps.
If you like dining al fresco, then this is the place for you. It’s a bit hidden, over a brook and through the woods, but very worth the effort. You’ll find it on the north-eastern side of the town, on the way back to Fertilia airport. Get there as early as you can, as the outside seating fills up fast.
The best things on the menu are the frutti di mare appetizer, any of the pizzas, or the housecured Sardinian sausage. Pair it with a local Monica di Sardegna (dry red wine) and you’re in gastronomic heaven.
Ristorante Daps.
Via f.lli Cervi, 16 - 079 950050
Nightlife in Alghero is rather limited in the off-season, but if you’re there in the summer, I highly recommend the Miques De Murall club on via Giuseppe Manno, along the seawall. The cocktails are excellent and the music goes all night long. If you’re more into the live music scene, check out Baronda Bar at Piazza della Misericordia.
Ok – that’s it for our first 1-day itinerary. I’m tired already.
Frankie
Books about Sardinia Travel: A review of Sardinia Guidebooks
Although I am a big believer in talking to locals when you’re visiting another country, guidebooks are a great way to plan your travels in Sardinia. Locals will give you the inside perspective and show you the hidden gems of Sardinia. Guidebooks about Sardinia will give you the big picture and help you plan times, places, and budgets.
Here I’ll list some of the better Sardinia guidebooks. I can’t say that I’ve used them since I really use locals, but personal experiences and reviews are welcome in the comments. All are written in English and are available online and at most bookshops.
Eyewitness Travel Guides: Sardinia
DK Publishing $20.00
Never used any of the books by this publisher, but I like how light the book is. It covers the major areas and would be good for the through-traveler who lands in a city and needs something to do.
Pros: Clear & concise with a good overview of Sardinian festivals, major cities, archeological sites. Sturdy & light.
Cons: This guide is more of a brief overview of what there is to see and do – no real discussion of Sardinian history and culture, so I’d recommend it for the quick visitor. According to the Amazon reviewers, the maps can be hard to use – here’s where talking to locals really helps. And a good map if you’re going to be driving around.
Lonely Planet Regional Guides: Sardinia
Paula Hardy $19.99
I like Lonely Planet guides; you can tell the writers have spent time in the places they’re writing about and the website is a good addition to the book. Spend some time reading traveler reviews of the various places in Sardinia and mark the pages for when you’re there.
Pros: More in-depth discussion of areas and sites. Includes plenty of activities like diving, hiking, cycling, and horse riding in Sardinia. Good supporting internet community.
Cons: Reviews in the book are out of date – some of the places aren’t open anymore. Spends more time on odd local Sardinian details that might not matter to the average traveler.
Authentic Sardinia
Touring Club of Italy $18.95
This is a guide written by a local Italian tourist club – so they get points for being Italian, but lose them for being more concerned with shopping and driving in Sardinia than anything else. Feel free to disagree if you’ve used this guide successfully.
Pros: Cool color-coded index lets you pick your mood – shopping, beaches, more shopping, pretty roads, and adventure. Plenty of information about festivals, sites, and shopping.
Cons: Seriously, no one goes to Sardinia to shop. If you want to shop in Italy, go to Milan. Or Rome. Or pretty much anywhere besides Sardinia. Even the Sardinians go elsewhere to shop.
Sea and Sardinia
DH Lawrence $15.00
Ok, this one isn’t strictly a guidebook, but I’m a fan of travelogues written about places you’re visiting by “classical” authors. It’s a travelogue written during the British travel writing craze of the 1920s. Lawrence focuses more on encounters with locals and describing the differences between this still-primitive island for British travelers. It was written after his popular fictional works.
Pros: Very interesting perspective on Sardinia post-WWI written by a truly brilliant writer. Bring it with you and see the differences just 80 years made.
Cons: Slim on the landmarks and touristy stuff. It sounds like all the guy did was sit in Sardinian cafes and talk to people. Maybe that’s not a bad thing.
Ok. So basically, all the guidebooks out there have your basic list of festivals, beaches, cities, restaurant & hotel reviews, and things to do. The difference is in the details – Lonely Planet guides are written for the so-called independent travelers in Sardinia who like doing more active things; Eyewitness guides are for the faster traveler who likes getting to things quickly. Either way – grab a guide, do some research, and for God’s sake talk to some locals.
Get reading,
Frankie
Here I’ll list some of the better Sardinia guidebooks. I can’t say that I’ve used them since I really use locals, but personal experiences and reviews are welcome in the comments. All are written in English and are available online and at most bookshops.
Eyewitness Travel Guides: Sardinia
DK Publishing $20.00
Never used any of the books by this publisher, but I like how light the book is. It covers the major areas and would be good for the through-traveler who lands in a city and needs something to do.
Pros: Clear & concise with a good overview of Sardinian festivals, major cities, archeological sites. Sturdy & light.
Cons: This guide is more of a brief overview of what there is to see and do – no real discussion of Sardinian history and culture, so I’d recommend it for the quick visitor. According to the Amazon reviewers, the maps can be hard to use – here’s where talking to locals really helps. And a good map if you’re going to be driving around.
Lonely Planet Regional Guides: Sardinia
Paula Hardy $19.99
I like Lonely Planet guides; you can tell the writers have spent time in the places they’re writing about and the website is a good addition to the book. Spend some time reading traveler reviews of the various places in Sardinia and mark the pages for when you’re there.
Pros: More in-depth discussion of areas and sites. Includes plenty of activities like diving, hiking, cycling, and horse riding in Sardinia. Good supporting internet community.
Cons: Reviews in the book are out of date – some of the places aren’t open anymore. Spends more time on odd local Sardinian details that might not matter to the average traveler.
Authentic Sardinia
Touring Club of Italy $18.95
This is a guide written by a local Italian tourist club – so they get points for being Italian, but lose them for being more concerned with shopping and driving in Sardinia than anything else. Feel free to disagree if you’ve used this guide successfully.
Pros: Cool color-coded index lets you pick your mood – shopping, beaches, more shopping, pretty roads, and adventure. Plenty of information about festivals, sites, and shopping.
Cons: Seriously, no one goes to Sardinia to shop. If you want to shop in Italy, go to Milan. Or Rome. Or pretty much anywhere besides Sardinia. Even the Sardinians go elsewhere to shop.
Sea and Sardinia
DH Lawrence $15.00
Ok, this one isn’t strictly a guidebook, but I’m a fan of travelogues written about places you’re visiting by “classical” authors. It’s a travelogue written during the British travel writing craze of the 1920s. Lawrence focuses more on encounters with locals and describing the differences between this still-primitive island for British travelers. It was written after his popular fictional works.
Pros: Very interesting perspective on Sardinia post-WWI written by a truly brilliant writer. Bring it with you and see the differences just 80 years made.
Cons: Slim on the landmarks and touristy stuff. It sounds like all the guy did was sit in Sardinian cafes and talk to people. Maybe that’s not a bad thing.
Ok. So basically, all the guidebooks out there have your basic list of festivals, beaches, cities, restaurant & hotel reviews, and things to do. The difference is in the details – Lonely Planet guides are written for the so-called independent travelers in Sardinia who like doing more active things; Eyewitness guides are for the faster traveler who likes getting to things quickly. Either way – grab a guide, do some research, and for God’s sake talk to some locals.
Get reading,
Frankie
Tuesday
Sardinia Travel: Best Luxury Golfing Destinations in Sardinia
World class golfing, lush scenery and stunning green waters make Sardinia a top golf destination.
For the discerning golfer, Sardinia has two major luxury golf courses. Il Pevero, on the ritzy Costa Smeralda in the northeast, and Is Molas, only minutes outside of Cagliari. Both offer world-class accommodations among some of the most incredible scenery anywhere in the world. Golfers accustomed to playing the best courses will find technical challenges and relaxing surroundings while golfing in Sardinia.
Il Pevero, close to Porto Cervo and a favorite destination among the European elite, offers top-flight golf and is listed in the prestigious Europe Luxury Elite as well as on the PGA Europe Tour. Boasting 18 holes at 72 par, golfers can take advantage of the luxurious accommodations while playing on Sardinia’s best golf course.
A world-renowned golf school and cutting edge golf simulators mean the novice golfer can get in on the act. Enjoy the amazing scenery while learning to play with Sardinia’s best golf instructors.
The facilities have been recently updated and include a topflight pro-shop, 4-star restaurant, putting green, electric carts, swimming pool and bar.
Il Pevero Golf Club
07020 Porto Cervo, Località Cala di Volpe (SS)
Tel.: +39-0789-958000, Fax: +39-0789-96572
Is Molas, another favorite Sardinian golf course, in Santa Margherita di Pula, will delight even the pickiest of golfing buffs. Its 10 km of rolling greens against the backdrop of the Roman ruins of Nora make for a unique Sardinian golfing experience.
The course has 27 holes and stretches over 10 kilometers of beautiful scenery. The Italian Open has been held here four times, and some of the best golfers in the world have played at Is Molas, with Vijay Singh winning his first international victory in 1989.
This world class Sardinian golfing resort can also boast a 4-star hotel, excellent restaurant, pro-shop, bar, swimming pool, sauna, massage services, tennis facilities, golf carts and a golf school.
Only 20 minutes outside of Cagliari, Sardinia’s capital and largest city, luxury villas can be rented for those who don’t want to stay at the hotel.
Is Molas Golf Club
09010 Santa Margherita di Pula (CA), CP 49, SS 195 Km 30.600
Tel.: +39-070-9241013-4, Fax: +39-070-9241015
For the discerning golfer, Sardinia has two major luxury golf courses. Il Pevero, on the ritzy Costa Smeralda in the northeast, and Is Molas, only minutes outside of Cagliari. Both offer world-class accommodations among some of the most incredible scenery anywhere in the world. Golfers accustomed to playing the best courses will find technical challenges and relaxing surroundings while golfing in Sardinia.
Il Pevero, close to Porto Cervo and a favorite destination among the European elite, offers top-flight golf and is listed in the prestigious Europe Luxury Elite as well as on the PGA Europe Tour. Boasting 18 holes at 72 par, golfers can take advantage of the luxurious accommodations while playing on Sardinia’s best golf course.
A world-renowned golf school and cutting edge golf simulators mean the novice golfer can get in on the act. Enjoy the amazing scenery while learning to play with Sardinia’s best golf instructors.
The facilities have been recently updated and include a topflight pro-shop, 4-star restaurant, putting green, electric carts, swimming pool and bar.
Il Pevero Golf Club
07020 Porto Cervo, Località Cala di Volpe (SS)
Tel.: +39-0789-958000, Fax: +39-0789-96572
Is Molas, another favorite Sardinian golf course, in Santa Margherita di Pula, will delight even the pickiest of golfing buffs. Its 10 km of rolling greens against the backdrop of the Roman ruins of Nora make for a unique Sardinian golfing experience.
The course has 27 holes and stretches over 10 kilometers of beautiful scenery. The Italian Open has been held here four times, and some of the best golfers in the world have played at Is Molas, with Vijay Singh winning his first international victory in 1989.
This world class Sardinian golfing resort can also boast a 4-star hotel, excellent restaurant, pro-shop, bar, swimming pool, sauna, massage services, tennis facilities, golf carts and a golf school.
Only 20 minutes outside of Cagliari, Sardinia’s capital and largest city, luxury villas can be rented for those who don’t want to stay at the hotel.
Is Molas Golf Club
09010 Santa Margherita di Pula (CA), CP 49, SS 195 Km 30.600
Tel.: +39-070-9241013-4, Fax: +39-070-9241015
Traveling in Sardinia: A Guide for Tourists: Where to Stay in Sardinia
Where to Stay in Sardinia
Welcome to Post #2 in our Sardinia Travel Guide for Tourists series. In the last post, you learned how to get to Sardinia by ferry or airplane. Here we’ll cover some general information about Sardinia hotels, agritourismo, hostels, and camping. As always, email me with any questions not covered here. Ok, let’s go.
So you’ve arrived in Sardinia by ferry or airplane, you’ve rented a car or motorbike, and now you need a place to stay. Great. We’ve already said we’re not talking about the Costa Smeralda so go elsewhere if you want to spend tons of money. Really, you’re not wanted here. Tourists and travelers to Sardinia have several options of where to stay depending largely on budget and the sort of experience you’d like to have.
Hotels in Sardinia
Like the rest of Europe, hotels here subscribe to the star system. If you’re looking for a true hotel experience, look for 3 star and above and expect to pay somewhere around €175 per night for a standard double room in the high season (June-August). Your mileage will vary here by region but expect clean rooms, breakfast, and a location reasonably near city centers or the beach. Sardinian hotels are very family oriented and you can expect friendly – probably not prompt or efficient – service.
Some English proficiency can be expected among staff, but it will likely be limited. Bring a phrase book (you are planning to learn some Italian, right?). If you don’t know any Italian and don’t plan to learn, you’re probably better off heading to the Costa Smeralda. Please go away now.
Many hotels use online booking services or negotiate through tourist agencies. If your Italian isn’t so great it’s a good idea to use a reputable service and keep all credit card receipts handy in case of disputes. Disputes do occasionally arise, usually over a quoted rate. As in most countries, hotels are required to honor an agreed (printed) rate so bring your paperwork and stick to your guns in the face of an unscrupulous front desk.
Hostels in Sardinia
Hostels are the way to go for the serious backpacker or budget-minded tourist. In Sardinia, they are mainly clustered around the coast in major cities like Alghero and Cagliari. Filled with international travelers, they offer a cheap and cheerful alternative to hotels. Most hostels will offer mixed or single-sex dorms with 6-10 beds or private rooms with access to shared bathrooms. If you’re looking for a private hostel room, check out pensione prices as well since they will be similar. For a dorm bed, expect to pay around €20.
Cleanliness and privacy will range greatly so be sure to check out any place carefully before booking. You can find traveler ratings online for most places so homework pays here. Most hostels book online but you can easily book over the phone as well. Hostels fill up quickly in the high season, especially around major beaches so book in advance to guarantee yourself a bed.
Pensione in Sardinia
Pensione, I think, offer the sweet spot between pricey hotels and bargain hostels in Sardinia. You’re basically paying for a clean room, usually an ensuite bathroom, and sometimes a small breakfast. Think of them as an Italian B&B. No tv, no room service, and no frills. The ones I’ve stayed at are usually run by a local couple who can be great sources of information and local color.
Online, they can usually be found listed under 1 or 2 star hotels and can vary greatly in price and amenities. Expect to pay around €75-100 during the high season for a standard double room.
Agritourismo in Sardinia
Worthy of an entire post, I’m going to briefly talk about one of the coolest innovations in Sardinian tourism. Agritourismo or agricultural tourism allows you to book a room on a Sardinian farm – think organic farming meets a dude ranch – and offers a fantastic way for tourists to experience life in rural Sardinia.
Most farming in Sardinia is still very small and family oriented. While organic farming hasn’t caught on as a fad, very few farmers employ chemical or factory farming techniques, so you’ll get the organic experience without the hype. Most farms are clustered in the hills and mountains of the island so they will offer a welcome break from the beach crowds. Accommodations in agritourismo farms are usually clean if primitive. You can expect tours of vineyards, orchards, gardens, and sheepfolds, as well as all the rustic Sardinian delicacies you can eat. Highly recommended for anyone that enjoys staying off the beaten track.
Camping in Sardinia
First of all – let’s define camping. Camping for some involves recreational vehicles (RVs) or Winnebagos, while in others it evokes sleeping on the ground. One can do both in Sardinia. Most campgrounds offer a mix of accommodations, from tent pads to water and electrical hookups for RVs. Usually open only in the summer and early fall, it can be a great way to tour the Gennargentu mountains and coastal areas. Beware of camping on private land – tent campers or bike tourists may be able to get away with a furtive night here or there but do so at your own risk. Language barriers and angry dogs might make an epic out of an otherwise idyllic stay.
Got any tips or favorites? Leave a note for other readers in the comments.
Next time, a discussion of the regions of Sardinia and favorite places to visit. Thanks for checking out our series on traveling through Sardinia!
Cheers
Francesca
Sunday
Traveling in Sardinia: A Guide for Tourists: How to Get to Sardinia
Interested in traveling in Sardinia? This is the first post of a series discussing getting to and around the island. Join me as I discuss the best places and times to visit.
Sardinia is one of the lesser-known jewels of the Mediterranean travel scene. The northeastern part of the island is known as the “Costa Smeralda” or Emerald Coast and is home to jetsetter tourism and posh resorts. We’re not going to talk about that area so much since there are plenty of other resources for that. We’re going to focus on tourism in the rest of Sardinia, where tourists rarely go and where authentic Sardinian culture can still be seen.
Sardinia is dominated by a rugged coastline, emerald waters, and imposing granite mountains. Add the warm Sardinian culture and rustic Sardinian cuisine and you have one of best off-the-beaten-track destinations left in Europe. I hope you’ll follow along as we explore the many facets of this unknown island and tips for your future Mediterranean travels.
Getting to Sardinia
Sardinia has no bridges connecting it to mainland Italy so getting there requires flying into the airports of Alghero or Cagliari or taking an overnight ferry. Flights can be taken from many European cities including: Rome, Milan, London, Paris etc. On arrival, trains, buses, or preferably cars can be had to get you wherever else you want to go.
Overnight ferries are my preferred way to get to Sardinia. From Rome, one can take a ferry from the Roman port town of Civitavecchia that will take you to Arbatax and Cagliari. One can also take ferries from Corsica, Sicily, Livorno and Tunisia.
If you’re on the cheap, just book a chair or deck seat and bring an inflatable beach mattress to stretch out on the floor. You’ll see many Sardinian budget tourists doing the same. Cabins can be had and cars can be driven onboard. It is highly recommended to come early if you plan to bring your car to avoid lines. Bring sandwiches and snacks for the trip, as the food aboard Sardinian ferries is barely edible.
Getting Around Sardinia
On arrival, your best bet will be to rent a car at either the Alghero or Cagliari airports or any of the ferry terminals for the remainder of your tour. Rental cars can be returned at many points all over the island for additional cost. I definitely recommend renting a car in advance, payable in advance, to minimize any last minute hassles. All the major car rental agencies have offices in Alghero and Cagliari as well as at other points around the island. Check for deals through AAA, or any other affiliations you may have. Always pay by credit card so that you can do a charge-back if any agent shenanigans ensue. Italians love to haggle and Sardinian tourist agencies are no different so come armed with printed reservations and a confident demeanor.
Sardinia has been the recent beneficiary of an autostrada di super-velocita, also known as a major highway. Running vaguely northwest to southeast, it takes a lot of the car-sickness and vagaries out of travel. It also removes a lot of the charm, so unless you’re in a major hurry, I recommend taking local roads whenever possible. Especially to be recommended is the coast road along the eastern coast of Sardinia.
I hope you’ve enjoyed our first list of Sardinia travel tips, stay tuned for Post #2 in our Traveling in Sardinia: A Guide For Tourist series.
Sardinia is one of the lesser-known jewels of the Mediterranean travel scene. The northeastern part of the island is known as the “Costa Smeralda” or Emerald Coast and is home to jetsetter tourism and posh resorts. We’re not going to talk about that area so much since there are plenty of other resources for that. We’re going to focus on tourism in the rest of Sardinia, where tourists rarely go and where authentic Sardinian culture can still be seen.
Sardinia is dominated by a rugged coastline, emerald waters, and imposing granite mountains. Add the warm Sardinian culture and rustic Sardinian cuisine and you have one of best off-the-beaten-track destinations left in Europe. I hope you’ll follow along as we explore the many facets of this unknown island and tips for your future Mediterranean travels.
Getting to Sardinia
Sardinia has no bridges connecting it to mainland Italy so getting there requires flying into the airports of Alghero or Cagliari or taking an overnight ferry. Flights can be taken from many European cities including: Rome, Milan, London, Paris etc. On arrival, trains, buses, or preferably cars can be had to get you wherever else you want to go.
Overnight ferries are my preferred way to get to Sardinia. From Rome, one can take a ferry from the Roman port town of Civitavecchia that will take you to Arbatax and Cagliari. One can also take ferries from Corsica, Sicily, Livorno and Tunisia.
If you’re on the cheap, just book a chair or deck seat and bring an inflatable beach mattress to stretch out on the floor. You’ll see many Sardinian budget tourists doing the same. Cabins can be had and cars can be driven onboard. It is highly recommended to come early if you plan to bring your car to avoid lines. Bring sandwiches and snacks for the trip, as the food aboard Sardinian ferries is barely edible.
Getting Around Sardinia
On arrival, your best bet will be to rent a car at either the Alghero or Cagliari airports or any of the ferry terminals for the remainder of your tour. Rental cars can be returned at many points all over the island for additional cost. I definitely recommend renting a car in advance, payable in advance, to minimize any last minute hassles. All the major car rental agencies have offices in Alghero and Cagliari as well as at other points around the island. Check for deals through AAA, or any other affiliations you may have. Always pay by credit card so that you can do a charge-back if any agent shenanigans ensue. Italians love to haggle and Sardinian tourist agencies are no different so come armed with printed reservations and a confident demeanor.
Sardinia has been the recent beneficiary of an autostrada di super-velocita, also known as a major highway. Running vaguely northwest to southeast, it takes a lot of the car-sickness and vagaries out of travel. It also removes a lot of the charm, so unless you’re in a major hurry, I recommend taking local roads whenever possible. Especially to be recommended is the coast road along the eastern coast of Sardinia.
I hope you’ve enjoyed our first list of Sardinia travel tips, stay tuned for Post #2 in our Traveling in Sardinia: A Guide For Tourist series.
Thursday
Welcome to Sardinia Travel Guide
Hello and welcome to the Sardinia Travel Guide blog. This is a blog dedicated to providing information about traveling in Sardinia (called Sardegna in Italian.) Here we will provide travel tips, pictures, videos, and reviews related to traveling Sardinia. If you have any questions or comments that aren't answered here, please contact me at piratefrankie@gmail.com
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